When heat beats at the windows and shoves impolitely at the front door, when the city bakes and the countryside wilts, it’s time to break out the hot-weather classics: Caprese salad leads the pack. Now is the time to indulge in the luscious goodness of juicy tomatoes and the cooling pungency of fresh basil. Add a side of fat—be it mozzarella, or olive oil with some vegan-friendly tofu—and you have a meal in one plate. It may be the ultimate tomato recipe that also manages to fill every corner of hunger.

Here are three of my favorite riffs on inslata di Caprese, including a vegan version and one with miso.

Photography by Marie Viljoen.

Traditional Caprese salad (popularized in 1950s) is worth a quick recap:

You need tomatoes, you need mozzarella (or burrata), you need basil, and you need extra virgin olive oil. What makes a successful insalata Caprese? Quality ingredients. But even hothouse-grown tomatoes can be improved by generous seasoning—this is no time to hold back on the salt. For the mozzarella, you can choose freshly-made (I buy mine from my Italian butcher in Windsor Terrace, Brooklyn, who makes it daily); this is a firmer mozzarella that needs a very juicy tomato. Or you can go commercial and domestic—choose mozzarella or burrata in brine; they will be more moist and plump. Or look to Italian-made mozzarella and burrata for extra tenderness and cream; the softer, brine-coddled cheeses can accommodate and envelop more acid, especeially in slightly underripe tomatoes.

For the olive oil, choose a single-source brand (some olive oils are a blend from many countries), and let your tongue lead the way. For some verions of Caprese heretics like me may substitute another oil altogether, like walnut or even toasted sesame oil.

Single-Tomato Caprese

You know those giant heirloom tomatoes that cost a small fortune? A meal for one in sweltering heat is the time to indulge. They also make a surprising and satisfying entrée for a party. Cut out their tough stem-base, slice off their caps (rub those across garlicky toast, for an appetizer), salt them, then add torn-up pieces of softer mozzarella. Shower the creamy cheese with a thunderstorm of fresh herbs, where basil leads the way. In the version above I have added tender and aromatic summer savory. Drizzle with a peppery extra virgin olive oil, and season with more freshly ground black pepper.

Vegan Caprese

Yes, the f-word is at work in two of my riffs: fusion. If miso (see the recipe below) works beautifully, why not tofu? Sorry, Italy. But consider the fact that neither basil (Africa and Asia) nor tomatoes (South America) is native to the Mediterranean. For this salad I like to use my home-grown African blue basil as a more camphor-forward complement to the spice of gochugaru (Korean chile flakes), the lush sloppiness of a tomato medley, and the addictive delicacy of silken tofu. For the tofu, unmold it carefully on a plate and cut into thick slices. Then use a cookie cutter to press out as many rounds as you need. Use whatever tomatoes you like, small or large. Season with soy sauce in lieu of salt. I have finished this vegan Caprese with either olive oil or toasted sesame oil. Both are delicious.

For the soy sauce my go-to is an organic shoyu so good you may want to sip it: Ohsawa nama shoyu

Miso Caprese

Miso Caprese Recipe

Makes two appetizer plates, or 1 larger serving as a side dish

Years ago, I realized that mugwort (Artemisia vulgaris), tomatoes, and miso, are a very good match. But it was only recently, when I had some leftover miso marinade from a roast salmon supper, that I thought to make it the base for deeply reconstructed Caprese. The miso is schmeared on the plate, with layers of firm mozzarella and extra-juicy tomatoes topping it. Instead of salt, a splash of good soy sauce; and in lieu of olive oil, a whisper of toasted sesame oil finishes the dish. A judicious sprinkling of invasive mugwort leaves adds a pungent note.

Miso Honey and Citrus Paste

• 2 Tablespoons miso (any kind)
• 1 Tablespoon honey
• 1 Tablespoon fresh orange or clementine juice
• 1/4 teaspoon lemon, orange, or clementine zest

Salad

• 2 medium tomatoes, very ripe
• 1 medium or 2 small ball/s mozzarella in brine
• 2 teaspoons soy sauce
• 2 teaspoons toasted sesame oil
• 1 Tablespoon mugwort leaf tips (or substitute basil)

For the paste: Mix all the ingredients in a small bowl until smooth.

For the salad: Halve the tomatoes and cut out any tough parts at the base. Slice into half moons. Cut the mozzarella into medium slices.

To assemble: Spread a tablespoonful of the paste on a plate (for a single serving), add the slices of mozzarella and tomato, season with black pepper, drizzle with soy sauce and sesame oil, and sprinkle with a few mugwort leaves (or basil).

See also:

• Grow What You Love: A Life of Tomatoes
• Gardening 101: Tomatoes
• How Many Tomatoes Does It Take to Fill a Canning Jar?