Not Your Mama’s Caprese Salad: Making the Most of Tomatoes

By summer’s end those of us who like to eat seasonally have (almost) had our fill of real, locally-grown field tomatoes. But no one told the tomatoes to stop ripening. Into the cooler days of October they continue to arrive at market, and locavores who feel they have had a surfeit of the juicy vegetable-fruit must remind themselves that the tomato-silent months are looming. And they are long. Late fall, winter, and that interminable, tomato-less spring and early summer lie ahead. If we truly value the flavor of food grown by small farmers near where we live, now is the time to indulge in the last weeks of tomatoes’ juicy goodness. The ultimate and easiest tomato recipe may be the classic insalata Caprese: tomato, mozzarella, basil. And it is ripe for improvisation and bursts of creativity.

Here are three of my favorite riffs, including a vegan version and one with miso. Don’t tell your mama.

Photography by Marie Viljoen, unless otherwise noted.

Traditional Caprese salad (popularized in 1950s) is worth a quick recap: You need tomatoes, you need mozzarella, you need basil, and you need extra virgin olive oil. What makes a successful insalata Caprese? Quality ingredients. Whether you grow your own tomatoes or buy them from a local grower, they must be good. For the mozzarella, you can choose freshly-made (I buy mine from my Italian butcher in Windsor Terrace, Brooklyn, who makes it daily); this is a firmer mozzarella that needs a very juicy tomato. Or you can go commercial and domestic—the Belgioiso brand is a pleasing version (I prefer their mozzarella and burrata sold in brine). Or look to Italian-made mozzarella and burrata for extra tenderness and cream; the softer, brine-coddled cheeses can accommodate and envelop more acid, in slightly underripe or late-season tomatoes. For the olive oil, choose a single-source brand (some olives oils are a blend from many countries), and let your tongue lead the way. Heretics like me may substitute another oil altogether, like walnut or toasted sesame.

Single Tomato Caprese

You know those giant heirloom tomatoes that cost a small fortune? This is how to stage them. They make an indulgent meal for one, and a surprising and satisfying entrée for a party. Cut out their tough stem-base, slice off their caps (rub those across garlicky toast, for an appetizer), salt them, then add torn-up pieces of softer mozzarella. Shower the creamy cheese with a thunderstorm of fresh herbs, where basil leads the way. In the version above I have added tender and aromatic summer savory from my terrace pots. Drizzle with good extra virgin olive oil, and season with more freshly ground black pepper.

Vegan Caprese

Yes, the f-word is at work in two of my riffs: fusion. If miso (see below) works beautifully, why not tofu? Sorry, Italy. But consider the fact that neither basil nor tomatoes are native to the Mediterranean. For this salad I like to use my home-grown African blue basil as a more camphor-forward complement to the spice of gochugaru (Korean chile flakes), the lush sloppiness of a tomato medley, and the addictive delicacy of silken tofu. For the tofu, unmold it carefully on a plate and cut into thick slices. Then use a cookie cutter to press out as many rounds as you need. Use whatever tomatoes you like, small or large. Season with soy sauce in lieu of salt. I have finished this vegan Caprese with either olive oil or sesame oil. Both are delicious.

Miso Caprese

Miso Caprese Recipe

Makes two appetizer plates, or 1 larger serving as a side dish

Years ago, I realized that mugwort (Artemisia vulgaris), tomatoes, and miso, are a very good match. But it was only recently, when I had some leftover miso marinade from a roast salmon supper, that I thought to make it the base for deeply reconstructed Caprese. The miso is schmeared on the plate, with layers of firm mozzarella and extra-juicy tomatoes topping it. Instead of salt, a splash of good soy sauce; and in lieu of olive oil, a whisper of toasted sesame oil finishes the dish. A judicious sprinkling of invasive mugwort leaves adds a pungent note.

Miso Honey and Citrus Paste

• 2 Tablespoons miso (any kind)
• 1 Tablespoon honey
• 1 Tablespoon fresh orange or clementine juice
• 1/4 teaspoon lemon, orange, or clementine zest

Salad

• 2 medium tomatoes, very ripe
• 1 medium or 2 small ball/s mozzarella in brine
• 2 teaspoons soy sauce
• 2 teaspoons toasted sesame oil
• two sprigs of fresh mugwort, leaves picked off

For the paste: Mix all the ingredients in a small bowl until smooth.

For the salad: Halve the tomatoes and cut out any tough parts at the base. Slice into half moons. Cut the mozzarella into medium slices.

To assemble: Spread a tablespoonful of the paste on a plate (for a single serving), add the slices of mozzarella and tomato, season with black pepper, drizzle with soy sauce and sesame oil, and sprinkle with a few mugwort leaves (or basil).

See also:

• Grow What You Love: A Life of Tomatoes
• Gardening 101: Tomatoes
• How Many Tomatoes Does It Take to Fill a Canning Jar?