Chrysanthemum Greens: A Fragrant Leafy Vegetable

Chrysanthemum greens are not what you might think. (Unless you know.) While fall brings the instantly familiar colors of chrysanthemum flowers to windows and front stoops, gardens and public plantings, chrysanthemum greens—a leafy vegetable beloved in Asia—remain obscurely mysterious beyond the Asian communities who know them well. Their botanical name is Glebionis coronaria, but they used to be classified as a Chrysanthemum species. The single flowers of chrysanthemum greens are more daisy-like than mums, and are a common garden ornamental in Europe and the US.

Chrysanthemum greens are sometimes sold as garland chrysanthemum, in English, and they can be grown from seed, or purchased fresh year-round from Asian grocers and in season from specialty growers. They relish cooler weather, and are a herbaly delicious addition to vegetable gardens.

Photography by Marie Viljoen.

I first met chrysanthemum greens at Fei Long Market, a vast supermarket brimming with fresh produce on 5th Avenue in Brooklyn’s Sunset Park. Huge bags of ample greens with succulent-looking stalks stopped me. Their scent was deeply daisy-like, and they looked a lot like the naturalized chrysanthemums that grew in my mother’s garden, growing leggy before blooming in early autumn. I bought a bag, took them home, steamed them, tasted them, and was hooked on the spot. In China they are tong hao, in Japan, shungiku, in Korea ssukgat. These transliterations are all helpful jumping-off points for further reading, as well as for online shopping.

A packet of Shungiku seeds from Johnny’s Seeds is $6.00

The flavor of chrysanthemum greens is distinctive, and makes spinach look very boring indeed.  It is a combination of aromatically, greenly herbal, and lightly floral. While they wilt quickly in steam like any other leafy green, they remain substantial.

They can be eaten as a simple side dish, sprinkled with toasted sesame; included in hotpots, or used as a substitute for any leafy green, one of my favorite ways to eat or serve them is non-traditional: Stuffed into a yeasted pie. Scroll down for my recipe, with a pictorial show-and-tell en route.

Chrysanthemum Green Pies

Makes two 10-inch pies

Chrysanthemum greens add their unique, bright flavor to a yeasted pie that makes a satisfying lunch or supper, or a portable treat for a picnic (it is so crisp and narrow that I have slipped it into the laptop pocket of my backpack, more than once. Well-wrapped, of course). This recipe can also be made using dandelion greens, spinach, chard, or lamb’s quarters. Adding feta is optional, but places the pie firmly in the Mediterranean. It surprised me to learn, when I first researched them, that the chrysanthemum greens prized in East Asia are native to the Mediterranean, and Central Asia.

Dough

• 2 teaspoons instant yeast
• 1 teaspoon sugar
• 1¼ cups tepid water
• 1 lb all-purpose flour
• ¾ teaspoon salt
• 1/3 cup extra virgin olive oil

Filling

• 2  lbs chrysanthemum greens and tender stems and leaves, washed
• 6 oz feta cheese, roughly crumbled, or cubed (optional)
• 1 Tablespoon sumac
• 2 teaspoons gochugaru, chile flakes, or Aleppo pepper
• ¼ teaspoon freshly-ground  black pepper
• ¼ teaspoon salt

Egg wash

• 1 large egg, beaten

For the dough: In a mixing bowl combine all the ingredients and stir until a cohesive dough forms. Turn out onto a board or clean surface and knead (or stretch and pull) until the sticky dough feels silky, supple and elastic— about 10 minutes. Return to the cleaned, lightly oiled bowl and cover. Allow to rise until it has doubled, about 1 -2 hours, depending on the ambient temperature. (I use the microwave as a proofing box. If a finger-poke into the dough fills in, it needs more rising-time. If a dent remains, it’s ready.) Return the dough to a board or clean surface and knead for a few seconds. Cut it in four equal pieces, and form each piece into a ball. Cover, and rest for 10 minutes.

For the filling: Steam the chrysanthemum greens in a large, covered pot over high heat until they are completely wilted and tender, but bright green —about 6 minutes. Transfer them to a colander and dunk into a bowl of cold water to refresh them. Drain, and squeeze as dry as possible. Roll them up in a tea towel to press out extra moisture (no one wants a soggy pie). Chop them roughly. Place the greens with optional feta in a bowl, add the sumac, chile of choice, pepper, and salt, and toss well to mix.

To assemble: Preheat the oven to 425°F. Oil two baking sheets or line them with parchment.

Press your palm down on each dough ball to flatten it and release the air inside. Working with two balls at a time, roll or press the dough flat into 10 to 11-inch discs (any larger will make the base too thin and fragile). Gently wrap one disc around your rolling pin and transfer to a baking sheet. Readjust its shape if it stretches in the transfer. Heap half the chrysanthemum green filling onto the dough and spread it evenly, leaving the outside ½-inch clear. Wet that edge with water. Place the second rolled-out disc on top of the first, covering the filling. Press down and seal the edges, either by pressing with a fork’s tines, or turning the edges up and crimping with your fingers. Cover this pie while you make the second one.

Brush each pie with the egg wash, cut a steam vent in the middle of each, and slide into the hot oven. (If your oven is small, bake one at a time, covering the waiting pie with damp cloth while the other bakes.)

Bake until golden, about 25 minutes. Remove to a wire rack to cool, or enjoy piping hot!

See also:

• Grilled Swiss Chard Stems: The Only Recipe You Need
• No-Knead Field Garlic Naan: A Recipe for Wild Comfort
• Roast Carrot Pâté: Vegan and Versatile