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Fresh Food on Far Rockaway: The Case for Urban Farms in Food Deserts

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Fresh Food on Far Rockaway: The Case for Urban Farms in Food Deserts

September 19, 2024

Although urban farms are on the rise, the idea of a highly productive agricultural plot in a city might still seem somewhat outlandish (what about space? or air pollution?). The reality however makes so much sense that it feels imperative to make room for more. Edgemere Farm, managed by Vanessa Seis and her husband Mike Repasch-Nieves, is run by volunteers on New York City’s Rockaway Peninsula, and feeds the neighborhood on half an acre. It was established in the aftermath of Hurricane Sandy in 2012, which laid bare the fragility of the city’s food system. “Edgemere is currently a federally designated food desert because of its lack of access to grocery stores that carry fresh and healthy foods,” says Vanessa. “The nearest grocery store is on the perimeter of Edgemere and Far Rockaway [also a food desert]. Most folks here don’t own cars, so getting to grocery stores is difficult. As a result, they mostly shop at the nearby bodegas, which barely carry any remotely healthy or fresh food.”

Scaled down to a smaller and more cyclical system than the large and industrialized farms of our imagining, chickens are on hand for fertilizer, an efficient composting system converts waste into a nutritious growing medium, and seasonal produce is grown with a focus on local needs. Added to this, the city farm is a neighborhood hub, fostering the kind of community engagement that a supermarket chain never could.

Photography by Valery Rizzo.

Above: There is room for flowers as well as food at Edgemere; the cut flowers are sold at the weekend farm stand.

The book Urban Farmers, by Gardenista contributing photographer Valery Rizzo (with text by Mónica Goya), is a lively testament to the energy behind what happily has become a global movement. The cover stars are Edgemere’s Mike and Vanessa—who talked to us about the ways that the farm serves the local community. “We have public hours during which folks can just come in and hang out,” says Vanessa. “A third of our space is designed with permaculture and food forest ideas in mind, and it truly feels like a garden, with benches, to wander through and relax. Kids love to come for the chickens.”

Above: Local children checking out the very fresh food on offer at the farm store.

Urban farms offer not only an alternative to low-nutrient, travel-weary, mass-produced food, but they can guide the way toward personal autonomy and empowerment. Food education is seamless: “A lot of people who just stumble upon us are surprised that farms like ours exist in New York City. Often, they are amazed at how much variety we offer on just half an acre, including a robust vegetable program, cut flowers, chicken, and bees.”

Above: Spanking fresh heirloom eggplant, ‘Listada de Gandia’.

Edgemere is powered by around 20 regular volunteers as well as irregular help. “Folks who start volunteering with us, or student groups and visitors that come on a tour, see how much work goes into growing vegetables and often leave with a new-found appreciation for food and farmers,” says Vanessa.

Above: Collard greens are harvested by Vanessa Seis, who lives in a beach bungalow nearby with her husband Mike Repasch-Nieves and their young family.

Many Edgemere residents have Jamaican and West African backgrounds and the food that is grown is intended to reflect local interest, including Scotch bonnet peppers, collard greens, bitter melon, and callaloo.

Above: Vanessa separates zucchini and their edible flowers, a seasonal treat.

Vanessa continues: “A lot of people are also pleasantly surprised at how easy it is to volunteer with us and get involved. Anyone can participate during our public hours, and in exchange, we offer a bag of fresh produce.”

Above: Refilling the seed library, which is free to all.

“We’re also a resource for other gardeners, and often get visitors who are looking for ideas, advice and seeds that they otherwise can’t get (we have a small public seed library and never hesitate to share some of our seeds for testing).

“At the beginning of the season, we do a big plant sale and compost giveaway, which is always a wonderful way to connect with our fellow Rockaway gardeners and celebrate the end of winter and the start of the growing season.”

Above: Edgemere is run mainly by volunteers.

“During high season, we host one or two public events (music, performance, art, workshops) that are always free, or we suggest a donation. It’s a lot of fun to share the farm with others in that way, and bring these offerings to the neighborhood.”

Above: Flower farmer Lazer Ali. Flowers that are grown at Edgemere are sold at the farm stand, as well as local restaurants Whit’s End and Margie’s restaurant at Rockaway Hotel.
Above: No space is wasted at this urban farm on the city’s outer edges.

Next step: local grocery stores for low-income neighborhoods plus urban farms.

See also:

Farming on the Roof in Hell’s Kitchen
Nature’s Defence: An Abandoned Former Military Site on the Rockaway Peninsula
Ask the Expert: Tim Mountz of Happy Cat Farm on How to Grow Your Own Tacos from Seed.

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