Grilled Swiss Chard Stems: The Only Recipe You Need

As cooling weather returns to the Northern Hemisphere and seasonal leafy greens experience a resurgence, Swiss chard stems beg for special treatment. These stout, juicy stalks are a vegetable in their own right. Inexplicably, when I was growing up, home-grown Swiss chard stems were stripped for their green leaves, then tossed aside (at least they were consigned to my mother’s magnificently steaming compost heap). Decades later, I was re-educated: At Al di la Trattoria in Brooklyn (which opened the year before I moved to New York City), Swiss chard stems were—and still are—served as a smokily succulent side dish. I tasted them once, and never looked back. Inspired by chef Anna Klinger’s version, I now grill Swiss chard stems several times a year (and yes, I save the leaves for another use: try them in leafballs). They are mouthwatering enough to be an entrée, and savory enough to be portioned out as party canapés.

Read on for the only Swiss chard stem recipe you will ever need. It makes the most of the beautiful grilling weather that is fall. Be prepared to lick the plate.

Photos by Marie Viljoen

The dressing I use for marinating Swiss chard stems is simple but powerful: acid, salt, oil. White wine or sherry vinegar, oil or salt-cured anchovies (vegans and anchovy-haters can substitute miso), and olive oil. The dressing can be chopped or blended smooth. Chopping the anchovies yields a more rustic version whose delectable nuggets of the salty fish are satisfying in the way only anchovy devotees can appreciate. It’s like bagna cauda, minus the dipping step.

Whichever method you choose for the dressing—chunky or silky, it’s the quality of the chard stems that matters more. If they are limp, submerge them in a basin or large bowl of water until they are firm and crisp. If the ends have seen better days, trim them.

Swiss Chard Stems with Anchovy or Miso Dressing

Makes enough dressing for a large bunch of Swiss chard (about 24 stems)

Grilling the chard over coals infuses them with that incomparable  smoky flavor. The stems are delicious hot, right off the smoking grill, but they can also be kept for up to a day in the fridge (remove them half an hour before serving). For individual party-portion canapés, slice the chard once cool, and heap them onto bite-sized toasts no more than 15 minutes before they are to be eaten. If you are cooking them over coals or on a gas grill, toast some slices of bread alongside, to serve with the juicy stems and to sop up every drop of dressing.

For a vegan version, substitute 2 Tablespoons of miso for the anchovies.

• Stems from 1 bunch Swiss chard (about 18 – 24 stems), ends trimmed, and washed
• 6 olive oil-packed anchovies, drained and finely chopped
• ¼ cup extra virgin olive oil
• ¼ cup white wine vinegar

Bring a pot of water to the boil. Drop in the chard stems and cook until barely tender, about 4 minutes. Drain, and lay flat in a dish.

In a small bowl or jar mix together the anchovies or miso, vinegar, and oil until emulsified. Alternatively, blend all the ingredients until very smooth. Pour the dressing over the blanched chard stems and turn to coat them very well.

For cooking over coals: Wait until your charcoal is red with a fine layer of ash. Remove the Swiss chard stems from the marinade* and grill them until they take some color on each side, about 2 minutes per side.

For pan-cooking: Heat a dry skillet over high heat for half a minute, then add the stems in single layer (there will be smoke). Cook on one side for a couple of minutes, then flip. Continue to cook until the other side has charred in spots.

* (You can reuse any saved dressing, adding it to cooked pasta, or tossing crisp salad leaves in it.)

See also:

• Not Your Mama’s Caprese Salad: Making the Most of Tomatoes
• Just Dandy: Served Wilted or Fresh, Dandelions for the Win
• Roast Carrot Pâté: Vegan and Versatile