Puntarelle: A Chicory Armed with Spears

At a cool season farmer’s market, you may meet a leafy green vegetable that looks like a cross between a giant dandelion and asparagus. There are the long, toothed dandelion leaves, and there, enclosed within them, are the firm spears. What is it?

Puntarelle, which means “little points” in Italian, is a chicory that remains less familiar in the United States than the radicchios and endives that have become ubiquitous. Like them, it combines crunch with a gentle bitterness; but with puntarelle, that crunch is explosive. The points are the crispest and mildest part of the vegetable, while the leaves keep the bitterness close.

Photography by Marie Viljoen.

In the US, you are likely to find puntarelle on the fall menus of good Italian restaurants—the vegetables are beloved in Italy. The season in Europe is generally from winter through spring. They might be served dressed simply but intensely with lemon and anchovies (in the style known as alla Romana), their plate a pale tangle of shredded spears; the longer points of some cultivars are often served after being soaked in ice cold water to make them curl.

Puntarelle last exceptionally well in the refrigerator—up to three weeks if treated well (meaning, not soaking in water, and well wrapped or enclosed). Before storing them, I trim their bases and refresh these chicories by soaking the whole heads in cool water for an hour, then dry them well, wrap, and transfer to the crisper drawer.

Puntarelle and Avocado Salad

Serves 1

While I think the classic anchovy-and-lemon treatment is delicious, I cannot improve it. So here is a lightly substantial and very nutritious salad-meal that will appeal to every kind of eater. Want more? Add an 8-minute egg, halved. Or a slice of toast.

• 3 – 4 puntarelle spears
• 1 ripe avocado
•  Tablespoons lemon juice
• Salt
• Black pepper
• 2 Tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

Slit the puntarelle spears lengthways, twice (so each spear gives you four pieces). In a small bowl combine the avocado flesh with the lemon juice and mash with a fork until the mixture is fairly smooth. Add some salt and stir well. Taste. More salt? Spoon the avocado onto a plate and  spread it out. Pile the puntarelle on top and season generously with lots of freshly cracked black pepper and a little salt. Finally, drizzle the extra virgin olive oil over the top.

Dig in.

Don’t waste the more pungent outer leaves of puntarelle. Raw, they also pair well with creamy avocado, and their bitterness is offset by the nuttiness of seed bread, lightly toasted to bring out the natural sweetness in the seeds.

See also:

• Radishes + Butter: 3 Ways to Prepare the Seconds-to-Make, Party-Ready Snack
• Naancaccia: A Butter-Drenched, No-Knead Flatbread Singing with Field Garlic
• Just Dandy: Served Wilted or Fresh, Dandelions for the Win