As winter lengthens and farmers market and kitchen garden offerings dwindle, it is often the sturdy cool-weather greens that are available longest. Leafballs—just like their carnivore-counterpart, but minus the meat—are a substantial and umami-laden vegetarian main course that I make in deep winter, when I crave the mineral richness of green things.
Leafballs can be made with any greens. Their flavor benefits from the sour punch that garden, sheep, and even wood sorrel (in summer!) provides, but if none of those is available, ground sumac stands in.
Cooking greens like spinach and Swiss chard boosts their nutritional value. On the one hand, cooking reduces their oxalic acid content (only an issue for people who have compromised kidney function), and on the other, it makes antioxidants bio-available.
Leafballs (makes 8) Ingredients 1lb Swiss chard, spinach, kale, or other leafy greens, washed -1/2 packed cup sheep sorrel (optional) - 4 oz feta cheese, crumbled - 1/4 cup Panko breadcrumbs - 2 tablespoons pine nuts - 1 tablespoon powdered sumac - 1/4 teaspoon salt - 1/4 teaspoon ground black pepper - 2 large eggs - 3 tablespoons butter - 2 tablespoons chives or field garlic (optional)
Instructions: 1. Bring a pot of water to a boil. Drop in leaves, and cook for about 3 minutes. 2. Drain leaves and squeeze dry. 3. Chop dry(ish) leaves finely. 4. Place chopped greens in a bowl with all other ingredients except butter and chives. 5. Mix well, and form mixture into balls 2-inch balls. 6. In a skillet over medium-high heat, melt half the butter. When it foams, add the leafballs. 7. Cook for 3 minutes, then turn carefully. Add more butter and cook another 3 minutes. 8. Finish with chives or field garlic.
To make leafballs for a crowd—I think they are an outstanding holiday table dish—double (or triple) the quantities below and bake the leafballs in a buttered baking dish in a 400-degree oven for 10 minutes, then broil them for 3 minutes, to gain a topping of toasty color.
The beauty of this recipe is that is can be adapted to what you have at hand: Any leafy green, your favorite nuts, and any firm white, salty cheese. If you like the heat of chiles, add some flakes, or ancho powder, or even East African berbere.