In the Northeast, October is a special month. As red maples begin to blaze, maitake, a prized edible mushroom, appears at the base of some old hardwood trees (which it is slowly killing). Here’s where to find maitake, how to cook them, and some precautions to bear in mind.

The caps of maitake range from tan to pale gray.

While immature mushrooms can fit in the palm of your hand, grown-up maitake can weigh upwards of 10 pounds and sometimes double that.

Use a sharp knife to slice the maitake at the base, trimming off any debris stuck to the bottom. Avoid mushrooms growing at the base of trees used by raccoons as a latrine.

Maitake “brains”—young, pristine mushrooms, sliced.

What part of wild maitake is best to eat? In a young, butter-tender mushroom, the whole mushroom is delicious, cooked. On larger maitake, the gray caps, or “feathers” remain tender.

In terms of flavor and fragrance, maitake is exceptional.

Cultivated maitake roasted with butter and seasoned with sea salt.

The name maitake means “dancing mushroom” in Japanese.