Juniper is commonly known as eastern red cedar. Despite that common name, these trees are not cedars, botanically speaking - they are actually a part of what is known as the cyprus family.
When they turn blue (sometimes coated in a white bloom), juniper “berries” are ready to eat.
They taste like intense juniper candy (birds agree and are the tree’s main dispersal agents).
Never be tempted to eat a handful of juniper at a time (although, why would you?); it is meant to be used in small doses, like most spices, or it can be toxic.
I use juniper in some predictable ways: In slow-cooked, wintery dishes like borscht and braised red cabbage, in Nordic meatball sauces, and in dishes featuring duck. But it is a surprisingly versatile spice:
Seckel pears candied with juniper and Meyer lemon zest, destined for a picnic.
Ground up and mixed with sugar or salt, juniper perfumes cured meats and fish (like wild salmon gravlax).
A winter salad of burrata with fresh sauerkraut and juniper is unexpected and fresh.